Senakulo

Amidst the backdrop of Makati’s high rise towers, a rich religious tradition has survived. Done yearly at the periphery of the country’s financial district, the almost 80 year old Senakulo (Cenacle or Lenten passion play) has been played out in the vicinities of what is now Brgy. Pio del Pilar alternating in Evangelista and Washington Sts.

The week prior to Holy Week, the street is blocked, to the chagrin of drivers and commuters, and a big stage is set up. On the eve of Palm Sunday, the passion play begins starting with the Creation story. For the entire week until midnight of Easter Sunday, the Senakulo is played out nightly to local audiences accompanied by a brass band with key scenes of Christ’s life, passion and resurrection.

The performers are local community volunteers. Cast members range from a few veterans who have been doing specific roles for quite a number of years while majority are tyros. The current Kristo (Christ), Bobbie Garcia, is one such veteran who has been doing the Senakulo for almost 50 years now starting as the Child Jesus doing bit parts in the first few days and gradually growing into his role.

It’s no mean feat to mount a Senakulo. There is the stage to set up. Huge painted canvasses that are used as backdrops for the many scenes. Costumes to wear. Food and snacks for the performers and payment for the brass band. Its a logistical nightmare and one has to be a master of improvisation to pull it all off. In an interview I did with Bobbie, he said that the production must have at least about P100,000 and that’s for the basic setup with recycled backdrops and costumes from previous years’ plays. Good thing that there are sponsors who support this kind of community activity.

Tagulaylay is how the rythmic singing is called. It sounds like an archaic song and the rythm isn’t varied much. However, as Bobbie said, it takes skill to master it and is only limited to two roles: the Kristo (Christ) and Maria (Virgin Mary). The rest speak their lines.

Most of the young performers are students of the Kristo at a local high school where he teaches. Practices start as early as January during weekends and rehearsals intensify as Holy Week draws near. As for the audience, it is not always permanent as nightly perfomances can be as short as three hours to as long as four. Some drop by to watch and observe. There are no seats unless one will bring his.
The Makati Senakulo has survived through the decades mainly through the dedication and commitment of its actors and through the generosity of sponsors. There was a time when it nearly stopped as the original director passed away and with him, the sole copy of the script. What the cast did was to write down the lines of each actor as far as they can remember!

Despite the modernity and sophistication of Makati, this religious tradition is very much alive.

Day of the Dead

In the Catholic calendar, November 2 marks All Soul’s Day. For the Filipino, and just like in many cultures around the world, remembering the dead is a time honored ritual that has always been observed even during pre-Hispanic times.

A few days before, boat and bus terminals are clogged with passengers. Planes are fully booked and highway traffic leading out of cities is bumper to bumper. It is a time when people go back to their roots, to their provinces and hometowns and especially gather in cemeteries to offer flowers, light candles and pray.

During the day and well into the night, people stream into cemeteries to clean plots or negotiate for electrical connection. It is one of the most lively places to be. Mini family reunions are held, food and stories are shared. Some stay for an overnight vigil of prayers, karaoke and games. While drinking has been banned, some still imbibe secretly.

In some places, one can still see food and cigarette offerings laid down infront of the tomb. In Cebu province, some still observe the “palina,” a short and quick ritual wherein the cemetery visitor passes over smoke. It is believed that doing this will prevent spirits from following back to the home.

Images were taken in 2006 and 2007.

Nuestro Padre Jesus Nazareno

The Nuestro Padre Jesus Nazareno or the Black Nazarene image of Quiapo in Manila has one of the most popular devotions in the Philippines. Every 9 January, devotees converge at the grounds of the Minor Basilica of the Black Nazarene to commemorate the translacion, or transfer of the image from the second Recollect Church in Intramuros to its current location in 1787.

The image was brought to the country by the Augustinian Recollects when they first arrived in 1606. It was said that it turned black when it caught fire during the voyage. The Recollect Fathers promoted the devotion to the suffering Christ and in 1621, the Cofradia de Santo Cristo Jesus Nazareno was established. Two papal bulls, one in 1650, establishing the confraternity and one in the 19th century, granting plenary indulgence, further helped spread the devotion.

Today, fanatical devotees often suffer bodily harm, cuts and bruises, and sometimes, death, as they try to move closer to touch the image in the hope of a miracle as the carriage bearing the image follows its yearly route around the basilica. It is also carried out during the Good Friday procession.

Images were taken in 2006 and 2007.

La Naval de Manila

In 1646, the invading Dutch greatly surprised the then Spanish colony that in the ensuing naval battles, 5 to be exact, the combined Filipino-Spanish forces consisting of two merchant galleons faced eighteen warships of the Dutch. The outnumbered defenders fought and triumphantly won. This encounter is historically known as the Battle of La Naval.

The victory was attributed to the intervention of the Blessed Virgin Mary that the commander and crew of the victorious defenders made a pilgrimage to Sto. Domingo Church at its original location in Intramuros, Manila. In 1662, the Cathedral Chapter of the Archdiocese of Manila declared it a miracle. Upon the orders of Pope Pius X, the image of the Nuestra Senora del Rosario – La Naval de Manila was canonically crowned in 5 October 1907.

The Our Lady of La Naval is the patroness of the Philippines and Sto. Domingo Church, which transferred to its present location in Quezon City in 1954 when the original edifice was bombed out during World War II, is considered a National Shrine. For many Filipinos, it is an important pilgrimage site.

Every October, on the occassion of the icon’s feast day, devotees flock to pray and pay homage to the Blessed Virgin Mary.

A Ritual of Faith

Self flagellation as an act of mortification has its origins in the 11th century in Italy that spread to Europe including Spain. The practice was introduced in the Philippines by Spanish missionaries during the late 16th century. In the past 400 years, it has been adopted and adapted to become an indigenous ritual. Today, it is mainly performed in Central Luzon, Metro Manila and some provinces in Southern Tagalog and climaxes on Good Friday of Holy Week.

Practitioners, do it as a petition or supplication in the form of a “panata” or vow, sworn for a fixed period of years. It is intended for the healing of a sick relative or a member of the family or, in many instances, as a spiritual investment in the hope that God will grant grace or blessing for the family as well as protection from harm and misfortune.

Flagellants are Roman Catholics. For them, this is the most important and most solemn of days wherein this kind of self mortification is the ultimate expression of sacrifice in order to share in the passion and suffering of Christ.

In the town of Infanta, Quezon, around 5 hours trip east of Manila, the self flagellation practice is unique because of the elaborate costume that these men don. The outfit consists of a skirt, called a “saya” made from dried banana leaves, a flog called the “panyabat”, tipped with wooden pegs and a floral headdress called the “tukarol.” According to studies, parts of the costume were buried before in fields for abundant harvests but now, this agricultural connection is no longer observed.

In the 1950s, as much as 300 men perfomed this ritual. By 2009, only around 30 were to be found.